Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Off the Grid, Part 3: Blyde & Johannesburg, South Africa & Home

Blyde, South Africa
     After a failed attempt to get the wing mirrors fixed we continued our journey west from Kruger National Park to Blyde, South Africa. Blyde is breathtakingly beautiful. It is one of the largest canyons in the world and known to be one of the greenest. We headed into the canyon and as thunder was rumbling in one direction and the sun shining in the other, we pulled into our destination. We were going to spend the next two nights with Scott's friends Ronel and Deon. They work and live at Blyde Adventure Camp, which is located on a citrus farm right on the Blyde River. It was just mid-afternoon and after our greeting by the three dogs of the house we headed down to the river for a dip before Ronel and Deon finished work.
     Scott warned me before getting in to make sure I didn't see any hippos in the water. Then he informed me not to go any lower than the pool of rushing water we were in because there could be crocodiles. Great, not only had I camped with wild animals but apparently now I was about to go swimming with two of the most dangerous ones. Hippos account for more deaths in Africa than any other animal. Surprising since they only eat grass.
     Anyway, guessing that Scott wasn't pulling my leg as he tossed rocks into the deeper section, I carefully chose my entry point into the river ensuring that I could see the bottom for quite a distance. It was great and refreshing after spending the night in the bush. I gathered my Kindle and sprawled out in the sun and Scott furnished the beers while we lounged. 
     We wandered back up to the house just before five where we were greeted by Deon. I wanted to shower, to Scott's surprise, I'd just been in a river, why on earth would I need to shower? Ronel and Deon have this fantastic outdoor shower. I'm such a sucker for outdoor showers. I just absolutely love them. I tossed my towel over the top of the shower head and relaxed. Now, the interesting thing about this shower is that it's located in full view of the house with no curtains. So the boys were sitting the yard out of sight and I heard Ronel come home and join them. Five minutes later I was done and I went to grab my towel. And that's where a glitch happened. The piping for this shower is encased in a tree (easiest explanation) and my towel snagged on it at the very top at a distance that I couldn't reach. I jumped trying to get it off. That didn't work. I was butt naked at Scott's friends house, one whom I hadn't even met yet, and I was stuck. I was about 3 seconds from calling out for help when I somehow finally got the towel down. It's a good thing... I don't think Scott would have ever let me live that down if I had needed his help.
     The plan was to go over to Geraldine and Shaene's house for dinner, neighbors "just around the block, 20 minutes." I had to smile at Ronel's definition of just around the block. Neighbors back home absolutely means someone who lives a few miles away across back country roads, but we never apply that term, that's for city folk. It just made me smile. When we arrived at their farm, we were greeted by about 8 dogs. I honestly lost count. Shaene was cooking dinner and the ladies and I opened some wine and hung outside with some of the children as the men occupied themselves in the kitchen. It was a nice change of stereotypes if I do say so myself. Dinner was delicious, the children were hilarious, and it was all in all a great time. South Africans are so warm and welcoming, it reminded me a lot of being back in Ireland.
     The next day I got to sleep in... that was until Scott let all three dogs in and they all three decided to get into bed with me and wrestle. That put an end to that. We had a super lazy Friday. Reading, napping, cooking. When Scott ran out to Toyota to see if he could get the mirrors replaced, I wandered through the grapefruit trees back down to the river and wisely tossed a few rocks in before taking a dip. I lost track of time and ran into Scott and Ronel and all the dogs on my way back to the house.
Marmite was my little buddy!
We decided to go out for dinner that night because it was just easier on everyone. Ronel decided that it was going to be fancy hat night. Scott was a little less enthused with this plan, but was a good sport in the end (arg!). Shaene, Geraldine, and all the girls met us out... it was a little difficult to get the baby away from Scott, who ever so calmly stated that he did not have children as Kathleen was wriggling out of his grip and about to flop on the ground. Geraldine lent a hand after stating, "You don't say?"
Fancy hat night!
Scott and Kathleen
Marmite enjoying my lap while
 I enjoyed my morning tea.
Part of the set
     Saturday morning, after a cup of tea or two, we went for a hike to the waterfalls. Scott and I rode in the back of the pickup truck on our way to the trailhead. The colors of the canyon were absolutely stunning in the morning light. The hike was fairly easy to start because the woods where we were had been the set of an Australian version of Survivor. The trail was nicely made and Shaene showed us part of the set. When we reached the first pool and waterfall I thought that was it. Nope. I was very wrong. We kept climbing up and around the first waterfall to the second, then the third, fourth, and finally stopped at the fifth pool and waterfall. I should mention that I was doing the climbing around the waterfalls barefoot as it was much easier than in my shoes, and also I was feeling extremely hardcore that day. By the time we reached our final destination I was hot and ready for a swim. Scott dove in with me quickly behind him. Upon surfacing something along the lines of, "Holy [expletive] it's [expletive] freezing!" Came flying out of my mouth. I don't think I have ever swam in colder water before.
The bottom half of the 5th and final waterfall
I hopped out pretty immediately, but the cold didn't keep Scott and I from swimming over to the actual fall later. It was absolutely gorgeous despite the freezing temperatures. 
The waterfall was too tall to capture it all in one shot.

 
By the time we got back to the group I was fairly numb. My body is not use to such cold anymore (my father can attest to this as I sat on the couch next to the fire in a room heated to roughly 75˚ F in not one but two layers of down over the New Year). We eventually headed back down partially due to hunger, partially because Scott and I still had a five hour drive back to Johannesburg that afternoon. 
Looking down the first waterfall
Before leaving the group drove me up to the dam so I could see the reservoir and dam and just how green the canyon really is. I may or may not have ridden standing up in the back of the pickup truck for this portion of the trip.
Scott, Ronel, Shaene
Largest green canyon in the world
Nine days together and we're still smiling!
I promise it was relatively safe Mom!
     After lunch, Scott and I hit the road. We were headed back to Johannesburg for my last night. I was interested in seeing the city, though hours later I discovered that it is really sprawling suburbs. The drive was easy, beautiful and as we got closer to the city the landscape once again started to remind me of the Midwest United States. That is until we passed four rhinos on a farm. We grabbed take away sushi (I was going to get my sushi fix to last me the next four months) before heading back to Scott's bachelor pad apartment. His neighbor came over for a drink  while we ate and before long we crashed. I'm fairly certain I was asleep before 8 pm.

     Sunday was an easy day. I fixed breakfast early and packed all of my things before we headed out to run errands. As this trip was a test run for Scott's big road trip starting this week (from Joburg to Nairobi and back) he had a few things he wanted to buy. He took me to the biggest mall I had ever been to in my entire life. I swear the place was 4 times the size of Mall of America (and lacking in roller coasters). Overwhelming to say the least. We got what Scott needed, including a gift certificate for a baby shower, which was highly amusing as I could see how uncomfortable Scott was in that store, debated about a movie (I sure as heck wasn't sitting through Fast and the Furious 7) and finally decided to just go back to Scott's place, have a glass of wine in the garden and then head to the airport for my flight.
     I was sad the moment I walked into the airport. I hate that feeling that vacation is over and it had been a fabulous vacation. We took off ten minutes early, I had plenty of time in Nairobi, and even arrived in Kigali 2 hours ahead of schedule as they changed our flight plan. My bags even came out within 15 minutes of passing through passport control. I was shocked. I arrived home at 3:15 am Monday morning, passed out on the couch as Emily and Jim were booted from their home because HEPK (His Excellency Paul Kagame) was staying at his Butare home down the street and Em was in my bed. I was up at 6:15, showered, dressed, and was back at work by 7:30 am.
     Scott will be stopping in Rwanda on this massive road trip of his, so while this was the end of our Southern Africa adventure, there will be an East Africa adventure soon.
Scott's street in Johannesburg
 Lessons Learned:
1) Never underestimate the importance of vacation.
2) Never underestimate the importance of long lost friends.
3) Never underestimate the beauty of this world.

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