Life Lessons for Lexie: Africa Edition: Italian Weekend Getaway

This last weekend I went to Italy. It was amazing. Really amazing to simply be away from Africa in general. I live in an absolutely beautiful country, but I was in need of a serious break with no computer and the ability to look at water... a lot of water. So for 72 hours I enjoyed southern Italy. It immediately surprised me that I noticed how low in the sky the sun was upon my arrival and I was shocked that the sun set so early. I was sure that adjusting to summer weather and "early sunsets" (6 pm) in Rwanda would be tough. But in Italy I just couldn't believe how short the days were! I've completely missed fall and what has been normal my entire life was now so strange to me.
Anyway, two years ago on an overnight ferry ride from Croatia, I happened upon two US Navy men on their way back to Naples. As it so happened, that was my first stop in my two week jaunt through the Italian countryside. Sean & Tim were going to offer me a ride, but there was no room in their car. Why was there no space in Sean's minivan? Because a Bosnian nun had rear-ended Tim a week or two previous while on his motorcycle and the two friends were fetching the broken machinery back to Italy to be repaired. So they left me, on the dock, waving goodbye, in Bari, Italy. You can imagine what Sean's wife thought about this. Within moments of having checked into my hotel eight hours later, I had emails from both of them, informing me that I was being picked up and taken out to dinner. Becci's first words to me when she met me were, "Can I hug you?!" She was appalled that they had left me. I meanwhile was perfectly content with taking the train/bus.
I was thrilled after a relaxing Friday afternoon of cleaning the airplane off me, looking at beautiful water, and catching up with Tim that we were able to meet Becci & Sean for dinner. The four children stayed home with their ritual Friday night pizza, which was a shame, but gave us all a good time to catch up. It was nice to converse with people who aren't a part of my life in Rwanda. I love my colleagues and roommates to death, but inevitably we end up talking about work and while Becci and Sean asked questions about work, it was just so different and I can't even really explain why. But anyway, much like two years ago, the four of us forgot to take a picture, however here is a stolen photo of Becci and Sean so that you can put names to faces.

Becci & Sean

It was really good to see them and I know that I always have a home in Italy so long as they are stationed there. After ordering and eating way too much food I called it a night and fell asleep on the drive back to Tim's place in about 5 minutes. I was slightly lacking in sleep from the previous night's flight.

Napoli sunset...

...from one of Tim's balconies

Saturday morning I was treated to a delicious breakfast by Chef Tim that was full of eggs, good cheese, bacon, and I can't even remember what else. All I remember is that it was so good and the milk in my tea was out of this world. It's the odd little things you miss when living some place else. For me, I'd die for some 1% milk to go with my Cheerios. But I'll survive.

Chef Tim

As I eased into the day the first stop was a haircut. It had been 13 months since I cut my hair so I was long overdue. Becci had given me some advice as to where to go and she was spot on. My stylist was great and actually cut my hair in a way I've never done before since I wanted to keep it long. It's easier to deal with it long in Africa. The shorter it is, the more out of control my curls can be. Anyway, I think it turned out pretty well!

Outside the New Castle with the New Do

And it was nice being pampered. I was complimented multiple times on my natural hair color (I suppose my shade of blonde is rarely seen in southern Italy) and told that my hair is too dry in the very next sentence. Afterwards we wandered through the sleepy city and decided to check out the "New Castle," which is a nice little museum full of art, but not too overwhelming when you're not in a serious museum mood. Afterwards we grabbed a snack and coffee (shocking I know... I actually ordered coffee, and then proceeded to add an ungodly amount of sugar to it) and then headed back to the apartment to pack for an overnight trip to the Amalfi Coast.

The New Castle

We had a choice... drive the old school Jeep Wrangler OR take one of Tim's motorcycles... it was 70 degrees...

...we picked the motorcycle and boy was it fun. I have always enjoyed riding on motorcycles. My father has had one my entire life and up until this year, he's the only one I ever rode with. I don't think my brother Kerry ever took us out, at least not that I can recall. But earlier this year in San Francisco, my Italian roommate, Luca took me for a spin across the Golden Gate Bridge and into the Marin Hills. It was very special to me and by far one of (if not my favorite) San Francisco memories. But now I can say I've ridden a motorcycle with an Italian in the US and an American in Italy. And both were pretty fabulous.

My Italian in America... missing the mustache

My American in Italy

We left mid-afternoon and hopped on the autostrada and streaked past Vesuvius before taking a small exit that started to wind itself up into the mountains. We snaked back and forth getting higher and higher and giving me a complete view of Naples and Pompeii below and Vesuvius rising in the background. Once over the mountain we started our slow descent down, passing villages, and multiple times avoiding hitting sheep who were grazing on the sides of the roads. I was relieved when we finally broke out of the shadow of the mountain and could glimpse the sea in front of us. Looking at the sea blend into the horizon makes you feel as though it goes on forever. We stayed in a little town called Ravello, which is high on the mountain and provides splendid views of the coast at every angle. I was happy just to sit in the hotel room and relax for the view alone...

Balcony view sunset

Balcony view sunrise

But we did get dressed up and wandered through the quiet off season town and into a local place for a bite to eat. It was delicious and the owner and cook was your classic Italian mother relaying such things to us as, "You are in no rush, I bring you another glass of wine" (after we'd already had a bottle) and "Have some chocolates" and "Do you like mandarins? I bring you mandarins from my garden" and "Here is also a pear from my garden." She was wonderful and so sweet. We were glad we picked that place seeing how in the off season, there aren't many tourists and we were one of three tables for a total of six people in the restaurant.

The proprietor and I

The next morning I woke up in time for the sunrise, which was so beautiful over the water. I went a little snap happy with the camera so you will have to look at at least some of the photos and be jealous.

After showers and Tim successfully finding his morning coffee, we were served breakfast on our balcony and then went for a stroll through the town of Ravello, which was very cute and lovely and the weather was a little crisp. I really enjoyed the cool morning. It gets cool in Butare, however it's Africa... it's always humid. And I really enjoyed seeing some of the leaves changing color. I've missed fall back home.

After our walk it was time to put our leather jackets back on and check out of the hotel and head back to Naples. This time though we drove along the coastal road. I managed to keep my camera out and got some good shots of the coast. It was absolutely breathtaking every where I looked. I am so glad we took the motorcycle. It is an experience that I will never ever forget. Sadly, the road had some construction so we couldn't go along the coast the entire way, but as we S-turned up the mountain I felt as though we were on top of the world. You could see for miles and miles. Everyone should ride a motorcycle down the Amalfi coast once in their lifetime.

We took it easy Sunday afternoon (in tune with the entire trip) and wandered down to the waterfront so I could continue my water fix and of course get pizza. I wasn't leaving Naples without pizza in my tummy. And per usual, it was delicious. After our late lunch and wanderings we headed back to the apartment and I curled up with my book while Tim napped. Eventually, we opened some Prosecco and enjoyed some movies. All in all it was a super relaxing weekend. I was treated to another home cooked breakfast Monday morning and some American goodies were picked up on base for me to bring back for Thanksgiving before I headed to the airport. It was short but sweet.